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Thread: 2000 323i rear window activaction failure

                  
   
  1. #1
    Junior Member
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    May 2005
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    2000 323i rear window activaction failure

    Does anyone know how to remove the rear interior door panel so that I can visually assess why the rear window will not close. When the switches are activated you can hear the motor work along with what sounds like mecahnical grinding?

    Thanks,
    JK

  2. #2
    Senior Member AlfaEric's Avatar
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    Jun 2004
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    N. Potomac, MD
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    Are you looking for something like this?
    http://www.e46fanatics.com/howto/how...hp?howto_id=28

    ---Eric


    Single handedly lowering the pax for MT

  3. #3
    Junior Member
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    Jul 2007
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    Fredericksburg, VA
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    I apparently have the same problem that kiewlak did this morning. I decided to put down all my windows and the passenger side rear window decided to go almost all the way down but then stop and make some grinding noises. It wouldn't go up or down afterwards so tonight I am going to try and take off the trim as per the instructions from the link above. Does anyone have any input on what the problem is? I also have the 2000 323i model. I ordered the Bentley Manual for the vehicle last week but haven't gotten it yet so I may pick up a Haynes Manual on the way home tonight at Autozone. :\

    Also what benefits are included in the BCCA membership? I think that parts discount is reason enough for me to join as I will probably purchase my oil from the dealership and other items.

    Let me know if you have any advice.

    Thanks,

    Nick

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiewlak View Post
    Does anyone know how to remove the rear interior door panel so that I can visually assess why the rear window will not close. When the switches are activated you can hear the motor work along with what sounds like mecahnical grinding?

    Thanks,
    JK
    Its your Window Regulator. This is probably the most common problem with the e46.

    Anyhow there’s just three screws that hold on the interior panel. Two under the armrest and one under the window switch, you have to pry it out to access it.

    Once you get them out just pry from the bottom of the panel and it will pop off. You'll have to unhook some speaker wires as well as the door lock cable. Then remove the vapor barrier carefully. A side note I would got to autozone and pick up some black silicon so you can reseal it when your done.

    Then you'll probably have to cut one of the cables to get the window to lower down enough that you can release the glass from the regulator, if i remember right there is an access hole for a 10mm nut that attaches the window to the regulator. Just loosen it a little, then with both hands close the window manually, it should stay there long enough for you to replace the regulator.

    Then there are just two more nuts that hold the window regulator to the door, release those and do a little maneuvering and you’ll pull her out. And your 50% done put in your new and get ready to do it three more times.

  5. #5
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    Fredericksburg, VA
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    Yeah I was able to get the door panel off. I think there was a screw behind my trim panel as well. Finding some of those screws were a little difficult and that star interface kind of threw me off. Luckily my friend had a couple of them for me to use and I bought a couple later on.

    That regulator was pretty trashed too. I bought a new one and I am going to replace it once it's not so nasty outside. My old regulator had some type of grease/lubricant on one side and I don't know exactly what that is or if it's supposed to be there. The motor was also kind of oily/gritty and I was thinking that may be from the wire getting smashed up. Is there supposed to be anything between the interface of the motor and the plastic socket? Normally I don't think lubricants are used with plastics..

    Thanks for all the help.

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