E36 v E46

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

I felt bad about Blair too. I drove him out past Centreville to pick up that car.

The worst part about that car was that so far as I can tell, he did everything right in the purchase. And man was it pretty.

[agreatham]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cNYFTkqgfRQ

I think the title is self explanatory....

Edit: And yeah, that's mine.

I know this is really way off-topic, but if it weren't for autocross, I would never have known that my E46 SMG will not engage any gear when the hood is unlatched. I was getting my car tech inspected for the first time and I popped the hood while waiting in line. The damn thing would not move forward until the hood was closed.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

I know this is really way off-topic, but if it weren't for autocross, I would never have known that my E46 SMG will not engage any gear when the hood is unlatched. I was getting my car tech inspected for the first time and I popped the hood while waiting in line. The damn thing would not move forward until the hood was closed.

My old SMG M3 got pushed through tech one time when I had a co-driver take it through.

[Griffon252]

ouch Nick, that sucks.

I miss my E36 M3. I would love to have an E46 M3, but if I was to track it would have to be the E36. I loved working on that engine! The 01 325xi I have now is no M3, but im still figuring out the workings of the engine bay haha.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

ouch Nick, that sucks.

I miss my E36 M3. I would love to have an E46 M3, but if I was to track it would have to be the E36. I loved working on that engine! The 01 325xi I have now is no M3, but im still figuring out the workings of the engine bay haha.

The E46 engine bay is better than the E36 engine bay. Every connector only fits where it's supposed to go, so you don't have to do any ridiculous circuit testing, or wire color checking. Aside from the need for the doppelvanos tools, the engine is just as easy to work on too.

[Griffon252]

I have not gotten to looking over the electric components yet. One thing I don't like is the fuses being in the glovebox, it is a hassle to get at them. From looking around it doesn't seem DIYs are as readily available for the e46 as they are for the e36. Might be because more e46 owners take their cars in to shops for work, and they haven't been around as long. But, it just seems the e36 all around is more DIY friendly.

[Scott]

thanks for the assistance. Think I will start looking at e36 from 96-99. Mostly come down to the thickness of the wallet. The e36 is still $5-$10K less than the e46. I like to work on my own stuff that is another plus for the e36. Presently drive an 07 Mini Cooper S. So I understand the lower hp car is easier to learn to drive fast. (more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow) Mini is also inexpensive to drive.

Does $8-$15K the price range for an e36?

Scott

[Griffon252]

yeah 8-15k is a good range. 15k will get you an excellent example of an e36. 8k will get you a good one, just some issues to look for that we noted earlier in the thread. Also, obviously if you look at an e36 that is heavily modded it prob was beat on. You might want to get one that is stock or very lightly modded so you can do with it what you want and what best fits you.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

I have not gotten to looking over the electric components yet. One thing I don't like is the fuses being in the glovebox, it is a hassle to get at them. From looking around it doesn't seem DIYs are as readily available for the e46 as they are for the e36. Might be because more e46 owners take their cars in to shops for work, and they haven't been around as long. But, it just seems the e36 all around is more DIY friendly.

Don't know why you think that E46es are harder to work on, honestly. I mean, I guess there are fewer picture by picture DIYs, but virtually everything is basically the same layout.

[Griffon252]

i can see what your saying. I have not had my e46 for very long, and lately with work and planning my wedding have not had as much time as i did with my e36 to do work on it. I know we will be keeping it for awhile and I do plan on doing as much as I can to it myself!

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

thanks for the assistance. Think I will start looking at e36 from 96-99. Mostly come down to the thickness of the wallet. The e36 is still $5-$10K less than the e46. I like to work on my own stuff that is another plus for the e36. Presently drive an 07 Mini Cooper S. So I understand the lower hp car is easier to learn to drive fast. (more fun to drive a slow car fast than a fast car slow) Mini is also inexpensive to drive.

Does $8-$15K the price range for an e36?

Scott

Go on the $8k end and use the $7k you saved to replace every single suspension component and pick up a spare motor. At $15k, you're picking up a cosmetically cherry car (i.e. don't beat it up on track) that still needs all the suspension components fixed.

[Scott]

that will open the pandora's box of questions, whose parts, brakes, spring, bushings etc sound like fun

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

E36 M3?

AST 4100 dampers, Vorshlag camber plates, Rogue RSMs, Powerflex RTABs, stock FCABs. Starting spring rate for a track rat should be something like 600/700. H&R front sway. Stock rear subframe bushings. With stock brakes, use cheap blank rotors and PFC06 pads all around.

[Scott]

How many miles are too many on a E36? Finding that I need to go in excess of 150,000 to get under $10,000. With under 100,000 miles sellers are asking $14K plus. Found one with 219,000 miles for $5K. Hope to find one where the motor, trans and rear are still in good condition.

[Car54]

Perhaps you open your search up to include 325/328's?

I would say at 100k miles, you will likely need to toss in $2k to get everything sorted and safe for the track. Not sure what your total budget is, but 10k isn't going to get you and an M3 on the track I'm afraid.

In your shoes...I'd be looking for a sturdy and rust free e36 325is for <$4k