Vader is ready for new control arms & tierod ends

[Jenson Button]

After a year off, Vader, my 1997 M3, is ready to get refreshed for track duty. On the to do list next is replace the control arms and tie rod ends. I was planning to go with the OEM steel arms and Bimmer world's urethane bushings for the "lollipops." I was going to use OEM tie rod ends.
Anything I should be aware of before ordering?

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Yes. The Powerflex front control arm bushings like to come apart under hard use. Avoid them. Go either OEM or with the GC hybrid bushings.

[Jenson Button]

What are these GC bushing your are referring to?

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Apparently only made for the E46. But they're mostly metal with a urethane or delrin center. I've got the delrin version on the race car and they're pretty awesome.

[Jenson Button]

Thanks for the info. It looks like the 95 M3 offset bushings are the preferred street/track combo for durability. Thanks for helping me avoid a mistake!

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Actually, the '95 offset bushings screw up the geometry unless you use '95 control arms. So you want to use EITHER one or the other.

(It's always easy to see the guys with '95 bushings on '96+ control arms - they're the ones with the wheels that are almost touching the front fender liner.)

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Oh, actually, UUC has a control arm bushing out that is similar to the GC hybrid concept. Note that there have been reports of clunking with it, and that UUC's customer service in these issues consists of blaming the customer and denying that any problem could possibly exist.

[Jenson Button]

OK, more good info there.

My plan as of now is to get the OEM 1997 parts and then get a local indy shop to press the bushings into the "lollipop" for me. I don't know that I want to go with the 1995 control arms since I think they are aluminum and nearly twice as expensive. I would prefer the stronger but heavier OEM units. Thoughts?

BTW, I have Kmacs on top of the strut tower so I am already dealing with a slightly bastardized setup.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

OK, more good info there.

My plan as of now is to get the OEM 1997 parts and then get a local indy shop to press the bushings into the "lollipop" for me. I don't know that I want to go with the 1995 control arms since I think they are aluminum and nearly twice as expensive. I would prefer the stronger but heavier OEM units. Thoughts?

BTW, I have Kmacs on top of the strut tower so I am already dealing with a slightly bastardized setup.

The geometry is basically the same with either OEM combination. The offset bushings were used to correct the geometry difference that came from putting an E30 front control arm on an E36. And IIRC, they're not even aluminum for that extra price.

For what it's worth, if you have RTAB tool, that will probably work for install the control arm bushings. And make sure you have Dawn available when you press the bushings onto the control arms. Really. It has to be Dawn.

[Jenson Button]

It has to be Dawn.

I read the BMW way is a kerosene based lube that evaporates to create a bonding agent. I would like to have the bonding agent if that is what is designed for use with the bushing.

I will probably just let my Indy guy do the removal and replacement of the lolipop bushing and ask him about the Dawn vs BMW kerosene lube.

For those in Baltimore, Cromwell Valley Automotive is my local Indy and Rick is a good guy.

[Car54]

Just buy the lollipop with the bushing installed already. I thought that's what everyone does.

[Nick325xiT 5spd]

Just buy the lollipop with the bushing installed already. I thought that's what everyone does.

It's an $80 savings for me to spend 10 minutes pressing the old bushings out and putting the new ones in. On an hourly basis, that works out pretty well.

[Car54]

Nick: I was directing the post to the OP who has to drive them to a shop and pay them to remove them, then second guesses the proper lube. At that point, $80 might not be so bad.

[Jenson Button]

Nick: I was directing the post to the OP who has to drive them to a shop and pay them to remove them, then second guesses the proper lube. At that point, $80 might not be so bad.

My shop is close so I hope it wont be too big a deal.

I am afraid I wound up with the post 96 arms and 95 bushings. How come despite specifically warning against this mix up with the parts guy, I still end up with the offset bushing?

[woodym3]

I am afraid I wound up with the post 96 arms and 95 bushings. How come despite specifically warning against this mix up with the parts guy, I still end up with the offset bushing?

Because you're that kind of guy?