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Thread: Need some help with brake pad deposits

                  
   
  1. #1

    Need some help with brake pad deposits

    Hey everyone....I screwed up my rotors and got pad deposits on them creating the lovely teeth chattering vibration when braking. I hear they can be fixed by using some track pads (Hawk Blue) to resurface them.

    Anyone here interested in loaning me a set so I can get this sorted out.

    Mods, this may be in the wrong place...feel free to move and delete this comment.
    Car54 ...well, now Car52

    Craig Brickner

  2. #2
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    You would be better off having them turned.
    Different combinations of pad material can cause deposits.
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  3. #3
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    G-
    Despite the naysayers, I have had BMW rotors cut with great success. I suggest an experienced shop, not the local autoparts store (done that too, ouch!). A good shop will properly measure rotor thickness and determine if they will clean up properly and still remain within spec.
    I might suggest looking into the cause of the problem, or it may be back very soon. Typically it involves too much heat, at least for the brake pad type in use.
    Good luck,
    - Joel
    Joel Bossard
    ---------------------------------------------
    1998 M3/4, Silver driver
    2002 4X4 Dodge 2500 Cummins HO 6-speed hauler
    2006 VW Jetta TDI commuter

  4. #4
    I know the cause:



    Anyone recommend a good shop in FFX area?
    Car54 ...well, now Car52

    Craig Brickner

  5. #5
    I have the same thing ever since the Marque Madness event at VIR. Was using my 330Ci stock pads and by the last two sessions had a terrible vibration.

    Since I have plenty of miles on the rotors and having to remove them anyway, I'm just buying new Brembo OEM rotors and stock pads and doing my first DIY. Next time at the track, I'll switch out the pads to track pads, try to brake harder for shorter periods and do a little more cooling down after leaving the track.

  6. #6
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    In swapping out pads I think it's important to use similar compounds
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  7. #7
    I've had great success going from street PBR Deluxe pads to H-10s for the track.

  8. #8
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    I'll second that. Hawk HT-10's and PBR Deluxe, same rotors. The Deluxe's are too wimpy to cut into the needed deposits from the HT-10's, so the rotors are pre-conditioned when you put the '10s back on. Great combination.
    - Joel
    Joel Bossard
    ---------------------------------------------
    1998 M3/4, Silver driver
    2002 4X4 Dodge 2500 Cummins HO 6-speed hauler
    2006 VW Jetta TDI commuter

  9. #9
    So I am going to get my rotors turned tomorrow. I took a look at the pads when I pulled the rotors, and they appear glossy. Is there anything I should do to them before I get the rotors back on, beside bedding?
    Car54 ...well, now Car52

    Craig Brickner

  10. #10
    Replaced my pads and rotors and all feels smooth and normal again. No more vibration. Hope the turned rotors worked out for you. Mine had a lip on the edge, so decided to replace them since they were worn in.

    I did notice a couple of pad outline imprints on my rotors, so I may have come off the track after a session or two and had my foot on the brake for too long before parking it. It felt smooth to the touch, but obviously there was a problem. Will definitely do more careful cooldown laps and take my time and stay off the brakes as much as possible from now on. I'm still a Rookie at this stuff.

    I've heard you can take some sand/abrasive paper face up on a flat smooth surface and rub the pad over it to de-glaze the pads? Other method I saw while searching is using a file to take the glaze off. Would be interested to hear any materials / methods used if I would ever have to try it.

  11. #11
    I had them scuffed by RPM, a local Porsche performance place. The problem still exists, but it's better.

    There's a trick I also heard of: Get the rotors rusty, water them down, wait 1/2 hour, then go somewhere with little to no brake use. Then you back up and press the pedal firmly, 25-0mph repeat until the rust is gone. This didn't work for me, but I think because I used too much pedal and didn't let them roll around enough. I'm going to try again, as my rotors have around 90% life left.
    Car54 ...well, now Car52

    Craig Brickner

  12. #12

    Patience and water = rust

    If you hose down the rotors and let them rust overnight, then drive to work and repeat, you will polish the deposits off. I have worn out tens of sets of rotors over 150 or so track days and used this method along with the track pad/street pad logic and never paid to get rotors turned. I wish I took a photo when I had the back of my pick-up filled on the way to the dump with shot rotors from over the years.
    Bob Hopkins
    M3 1997 Black "Vader"
    911 1986 Red "Baron"

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