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Thread: Tracking your DD (Insurance)

                  
   
  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by white_2kgt
    Exactly, read the policy. If you have an 'old' SF policy then you are covered.
    Define "old" please.

  2. #17
    Senior Member bren's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slpnbyu
    Define "old" please.
    It's only "old" until they send you the renewal paperwork with the updated language in the contract.

  3. #18
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    Nationwide regularly sends me addendums to my policy.
    Usually it is involved in reduced coverage for the same price.
    Last time I read it it actually said nothing about race tracks or competitive events.

    But better to research this now than before it's too late.
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  4. #19
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    This is a very tricky (and touchy) subject.

    Yes, whether or not you're covered will be controlled by the language of the policy. It's a contract and will be strictly contrued. Asking the agent (and the underwriter) is only worth something if the question and the answer are in writing. If you only got a verbal response then it's only worth the same weight as the advise you're getting here - read that as worthless.

    OK, now that I've said that everything you read here is worthless time for my 2 cents.

    Remember that I am not your lawyer and that you should seek the advise of a lawyer in your particular jurisdiction.

    Over the years, we've seen that most insurance companies will pay for one track mishap. However, most insurance companies are changing their policies to limit their exposure for "track events". Also, many times the insured's claim is denied initially and it requires the intervention of a lawyer to get the insurance company to actually pay. One of the primary factors in ultimately getting coverage is tell the truth about what happened. Don't even consider the "I hit a deer in rural West VA" line (unless the deer crossed the track in front of you - has happened several times at Summit Point).

    The best advise I can give you is to remember that you drove the car to the track and that you need to drive it home when you're done. This has the tendency to slow you down a bit, but you remain careful and alert. Basically, don't drive at 10/10th or even at 9/10th. Leave yourself some room to recover from something that happens while you're driving.

    You're at a stage where you want to go faster. Please resist the temptation to switch to "R" compound tires. Stay on the street tires for a little longer. This has a benefit of keeping the speeds a bit lower and giving you more time to react to situations on the track. If you want to upgrade, work on the driver first then the brakes.

    Most people who have been doing these events for any period of time will tell you that it's not a matter of "if" something will happen, but "when" something will happen. Again, simply leaving yourself some recovery room and remembering that you need to drive home helps a lot.

    I have found that most "incidents" occur due to driver error which is compounded by additional driver error. The first error is losing control - the second error is thinking that you can recover. Chances are, that once you've lost control of the car, you should simply drive the car off the track. Don't make the mistake of trying to stay on the track. If you drive the car off, you have some control over your destiny. If you *try* to recover, you will likely lose what little control you had and simply become a passenger. Most instructors will guide you through the "recovery" process (the old saying of "in a spin, both feet in" or "drive off straight"). Listen to the instructor and look where you want to go. If you look at the armco, car, tree, etc. - then that's what you'll hit. If you look at the opening between the trees, cars, etc. then you simply need to clean your shorts when you drive back into the pits.
    Rafael Garces
    NCC Street Survival Coordinator
    NCC Past President (2003-2005)
    '16 BMW 340i - Estoril Blue, M-Sport, Track Handling Package
    '13 Porsche Boxster S, Amaranth Red

  5. #20
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    This is why my track car is a 13 year old mr2. It's a pretty good feeling knowing that worst case, I'm out 5 grand.

    I've always wondered about people who could take a new M3 out on the track. I figured they were either a lot better driver than me or made a WHOLE lot more money than me. Being able to afford it is one thing, being able to pay for it and not feel any regret is another.

  6. #21
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    For my money, it's worthwhile to have a car I can afford to walk away from in the event of a track mishap. My e30 is worth more in parts than as a car, and insurance runs me about $10 a month as a second car. If you have a place to park it, and the inclination to maintain it, a cheap DE car is a good way to go.

  7. #22
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hicks
    My e30 is worth more in parts than as a car, and insurance runs me about $10 a month as a second car.
    I need your insurance company.
    2 drivers
    2003 MINI Cooper S $94.31/month
    1996 318ti $77.90/month
    1991 325iC $75.15/month
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  8. #23
    Senior Member SMOODY's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1996 328ti
    I need your insurance company.
    2 drivers
    2003 MINI Cooper S $94.31/month
    1996 318ti $77.90/month
    1991 325iC $75.15/month
    Ouch!

    We only run about ~$140 a month for all three cars listed in my sig.
    2001 330i (my car)
    2004 Audi Allroad (wife's car and family truckster)

  9. #24
    Senior Member FT's Avatar
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    This is a little interesting, especially about State Farm:
    http://www.caymanclub.net/topic.asp?...le=Cayman+Chat
    Fatih

  10. #25
    Member white_2kgt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slpnbyu
    Define "old" please.
    Quote Originally Posted by bren
    It's only "old" until they send you the renewal paperwork with the updated language in the contract.
    Exactly. I have different policy numbers for my vehicles. I received the adendum for my truck's policy but not the mustang, this was on purpose and my agent helped with this.

    Quote Originally Posted by FT
    This is a little interesting, especially about State Farm:
    http://www.caymanclub.net/topic.asp?...le=Cayman+Chat
    STLPCA has the old policy as well, I hope they haven't updated his.

  11. #26
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    Your insurance rates in Maryland are typically higher than in VA. Back a few years ago a friend of mine was considering buying a new townhouse in Waldorf, MD or a used one in Little Rocky Run in Centerville, VA. The house in MD was new and $15K cheaper. Now she she worked in Fairlakes. Dont ask. Anyway I told her before she made a decision call and ask her insurance agent about car insurance. At the time she was living near Landmark mall. If she had moved to Waldorf her insurance would have almost doubled on her Mazda 929. Going from a about $1k to $2k. Her insurance actually dropped 10 bucks a month by moving out to Centerville.

    Dave Apker and the collies who will need flippers, a snorkel and a mask at their herding trial this weekend.

  12. #27
    I am an insurance agent with Liberty Mutual over in the MD area. I recently worked with a client who was inquiring about the same thing your all speaking about. " Will you insure my vehicle while on the track? " The answer is no. I spoke with my underwriting department as well as colleagues who work for State Farm and Allstate. All have riders which would exclude any damage during a track event. Be it a race or even for "educational purposes." There are other companies who take this type of risk however it can be quite expensive. Sorry I couldn't give you better news.

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