E30 2.5L Coupe

[Scotty]

Hi Everyone,

FNG here.

I'm looking for a relatively decent E30 coupe for street use and track days. Manual trans only. Prefer a1989-1991 325i or 325is. Not interested in "eta" models, sedans, convertibles, 4 cylinder engines, or M3's. (Well, OK, if you have an E30 M3 for sale, I'm listening.)

Any leads or pointers to reputable dealers would be appreciated. High mileage, overhauls, motor swaps, etc. are not an issue as long as the new parts are equivalent. Rust and collision damage are issues.

Thanks very much!

[M-technik-3]

craigslist.org is your friend.

[Scotty]

Thanks. It's been a long time since I visited that site. Not bad!

[Scotty]

Still looking for the elusive 325i/is 2-door. I'm monitoring several web sites. I also left a note at Dan Martin's shop.

If you have any leads, please feel free to post a reply here or call me at 240.274.3988. Thanks!

[M-technik-3]

Budget?

[SharkD]

I'd argue that E30 325i/iS are ubiquitous, not elusive. It took all of 30 seconds for me to find mine. Literally.

In the D.C. area, $2,500 - $3,500 should net you a solid car with a documented history. $1,750 should net you a solid track rat with cosmetic "issues".

[1996 328ti]

I'd argue that E30 325i/iS are ubiquitous, not elusive. It took all of 30 seconds for me to find mine. Literally.

You were lucky. The ones I was finding where very ragged out. Torn seats and rust.

But I did just find a 91 Convertible.

[Scotty]

Ubiquitous? OK, I guess I'm not trying hard enough.

I'm prepared to pay a fair price. Like you said, Dan, the going rate for a late-model with 150K+ miles is somewhere around $2500. I don't have any serious budget constraints; I just want enough money left over for maintenance items, overhauling (if necessary), and performance upgrades.

Cosmetics are not an issue - dings, scratches, torn seats, cracked dashes, and oxidized paint are not a big deal. I'm not interested in rust buckets or bent salvage cars. Low-mile specimans with good maintenance histories will be considered if the price isn't too high.

The hazy plan in my car-addled brain looks something like this: prep the garage, retool myself (I sold all my tools during a move to Arizona back in 98 ), and then prep the car for track days and sporting drives around town. If all goes well in the first year or so, either set the car up for club racing (probably SCCA ITS) or get rid of it and buy a ready-made competition car.

Your input is very much appreciated. If you guide me to a car, I'll guide you to the bar and buy you a pint.

[1996 328ti]

Rust buckets is all I found for $2500. And no one off of Craig's List seems to return emails.
Keep your eye on the classifieds on the website. That is where I picked up mine.

[SharkD]

Bought mine for $2,500 -- junky seats, soggy carpets, sans clearcoat; mechanicals guaranteed by Dan Martin.

Most of the SpecE30 guys are finding (grungy) cars for $1,000-1,500.

If you're planning on eventually running in a racing series, you'll pay 10-20% less by buying a pre-built car, although the incremental build approach that I went with has the advantage of spreading the cost out over a much longer period.

Check out the classifieds of the other BMWCCA chapters within what you'd consider to be a reasonable distance, www.E30tech.com, www.r3vlimited.com, www.NASAforums.com, the classifieds at www.SpecE30.com, eBay and the classifieds of the major papers in the same geographic spread as the BMWCCA chapters (you never know).

[Scotty]

If you're planning on eventually running in a racing series, you'll pay 10-20% less by buying a pre-built car, although the incremental build approach that I went with has the advantage of spreading the cost out over a much longer period.

Yeah, when I get to club racing, I'll probably end up buying someone else's race car. Several race veterans have given me the same advice: buy, don't build. Of course, some people build right from the start because that's what they want to do. I'm sort of in-between.

I decided to get a street car for two reasons: 1) I can drive on the street regularly to acquire a feel for the car -- maybe even start learning a little heel-and-toe; 2) by doing some of my own work, I can get familiar with the mechanicals so that I can support myself (to some degree) when I'm at the track.

Thanks for all the pointers!

[SharkD]

...I decided to get a street car for two reasons: 1) I can drive on the street regularly to acquire a feel for the car -- maybe even start learning a little heel-and-toe...

I wouldn't advise practicing heel-and-toe on the street, especially in traffic -- if you slip (and you will), you run the risk of rear-ending somebody. The best place to practice is in your driveway, with the engine off; the second-best place is an interstate clover-leaf interchange at 3am.

[ChosenGSR]

I wouldn't advise practicing heel-and-toe on the street, especially in traffic -- if you slip (and you will), you run the risk of rear-ending somebody. The best place to practice is in your driveway, with the engine off; the second-best place is an interstate clover-leaf interchange at 3am.

This brings out that whole can of worms on how to "properly" heel-toe, if you really are using the heel to blip the throttle you shouldn't experience any slipping. As much as I am trying to learn the "proper" technique I am not having much success.

[SharkD]

This brings out that whole can of worms on how to "properly" heel-toe, if you really are using the heel to blip the throttle you shouldn't experience any slipping. As much as I am trying to learn the "proper" technique I am not having much success.

As an aside -- it depends on your pedal configuration: in my Mustang, with a floating accelerator pedal, I do actually use my heel on the accelerator; in my BMWs, with the bottom-hinged pedal, I use the outside of my foot on the accelerator (also, despite my E-width feet, I added pedal side-extensions onto both BMWs -- I could almost fit my entire foot between the brake and gas pedals on my 6er).

Back on topic... I found a gorgeous zinnabarrot E30 a quarter mile from my house... unfortunately, the owner wants $4,500 for a 1986 325es with 215,000+ on the clock.

[M-technik-3]

I bought the 89 off of craigslist tonight the 89 325is auto. It's nice one tear in the seat the rest was minor TB and major maintance has been completed.

Now to convert it to a stick. damn I have 6 e30's in the fleet now.