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Thread: E30 2.5L Coupe

                  
   
  1. #1
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    E30 2.5L Coupe

    Hi Everyone,

    FNG here.

    I'm looking for a relatively decent E30 coupe for street use and track days. Manual trans only. Prefer a1989-1991 325i or 325is. Not interested in "eta" models, sedans, convertibles, 4 cylinder engines, or M3's. (Well, OK, if you have an E30 M3 for sale, I'm listening.)

    Any leads or pointers to reputable dealers would be appreciated. High mileage, overhauls, motor swaps, etc. are not an issue as long as the new parts are equivalent. Rust and collision damage are issues.

    Thanks very much!
    Last edited by Scotty; 05-23-2006 at 04:57 PM.
    Scott Lowrey

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    craigslist.org is your friend.

  3. #3
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    Thanks. It's been a long time since I visited that site. Not bad!
    Scott Lowrey

  4. #4
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    Still looking for the elusive 325i/is 2-door. I'm monitoring several web sites. I also left a note at Dan Martin's shop.

    If you have any leads, please feel free to post a reply here or call me at 240.274.3988. Thanks!
    Scott Lowrey

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    Budget?

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    Senior Member SharkD's Avatar
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    I'd argue that E30 325i/iS are ubiquitous, not elusive. It took all of 30 seconds for me to find mine. Literally.

    In the D.C. area, $2,500 - $3,500 should net you a solid car with a documented history. $1,750 should net you a solid track rat with cosmetic "issues".

  7. #7
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD
    I'd argue that E30 325i/iS are ubiquitous, not elusive. It took all of 30 seconds for me to find mine. Literally.
    You were lucky. The ones I was finding where very ragged out. Torn seats and rust.

    But I did just find a 91 Convertible.
    ...steven
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    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  8. #8
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    Ubiquitous? OK, I guess I'm not trying hard enough.

    I'm prepared to pay a fair price. Like you said, Dan, the going rate for a late-model with 150K+ miles is somewhere around $2500. I don't have any serious budget constraints; I just want enough money left over for maintenance items, overhauling (if necessary), and performance upgrades.

    Cosmetics are not an issue - dings, scratches, torn seats, cracked dashes, and oxidized paint are not a big deal. I'm not interested in rust buckets or bent salvage cars. Low-mile specimans with good maintenance histories will be considered if the price isn't too high.

    The hazy plan in my car-addled brain looks something like this: prep the garage, retool myself (I sold all my tools during a move to Arizona back in 98 ), and then prep the car for track days and sporting drives around town. If all goes well in the first year or so, either set the car up for club racing (probably SCCA ITS) or get rid of it and buy a ready-made competition car.

    Your input is very much appreciated. If you guide me to a car, I'll guide you to the bar and buy you a pint.
    Scott Lowrey

  9. #9
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    Rust buckets is all I found for $2500. And no one off of Craig's List seems to return emails.
    Keep your eye on the classifieds on the website. That is where I picked up mine.
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  10. #10
    Senior Member SharkD's Avatar
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    Bought mine for $2,500 -- junky seats, soggy carpets, sans clearcoat; mechanicals guaranteed by Dan Martin.

    Most of the SpecE30 guys are finding (grungy) cars for $1,000-1,500.

    If you're planning on eventually running in a racing series, you'll pay 10-20% less by buying a pre-built car, although the incremental build approach that I went with has the advantage of spreading the cost out over a much longer period.

    Check out the classifieds of the other BMWCCA chapters within what you'd consider to be a reasonable distance, www.E30tech.com, www.r3vlimited.com, www.NASAforums.com, the classifieds at www.SpecE30.com, eBay and the classifieds of the major papers in the same geographic spread as the BMWCCA chapters (you never know).
    Last edited by SharkD; 06-05-2006 at 10:25 PM.

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    I bought the 89 off of craigslist tonight the 89 325is auto. It's nice one tear in the seat the rest was minor TB and major maintance has been completed.

    Now to convert it to a stick. damn I have 6 e30's in the fleet now.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-technik-3
    I bought the 89 off of craigslist tonight the 89 325is auto. It's nice one tear in the seat the rest was minor TB and major maintance has been completed.

    Now to convert it to a stick. damn I have 6 e30's in the fleet now.
    Have you given any thought to becoming a dealer?

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    Yeah it's an addiction, I know and I don't give em up. Sad thing is I have number 7 lined up but it's not mine. I found a white 88 with a toasted HG on Cape Cod while visiting Mom last month cheap $700 runs needs tlc and some work but.

    It's a stick and has low mileage blue top and blue leather. Looks good. Need help from a car doctor or something. How much is a license in VA?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-technik-3
    How much is a license in VA?
    Not sure. I looked into it though. It varies by county and is kind of a pain in the ass in addition to the cost.

  15. #15
    Senior Member Scotty's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD
    If you're planning on eventually running in a racing series, you'll pay 10-20% less by buying a pre-built car, although the incremental build approach that I went with has the advantage of spreading the cost out over a much longer period.
    Yeah, when I get to club racing, I'll probably end up buying someone else's race car. Several race veterans have given me the same advice: buy, don't build. Of course, some people build right from the start because that's what they want to do. I'm sort of in-between.

    I decided to get a street car for two reasons: 1) I can drive on the street regularly to acquire a feel for the car -- maybe even start learning a little heel-and-toe; 2) by doing some of my own work, I can get familiar with the mechanicals so that I can support myself (to some degree) when I'm at the track.

    Thanks for all the pointers!
    Scott Lowrey

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