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stuck spark plug
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Thread: stuck spark plug

                  
   
  1. #1
    Member
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    stuck spark plug

    so i'm swapping out plugs and one of them won't back out. i got it to turn about 2 revolutions, and then nothing. i then tried the tighten/loosen method to see if i could get the plug to play, but the plug pretty much just seized.
    i read in some newsgroups where people suggested soaking the plug with wd-40 and then trying again.
    anyone else have any other ideas?

    thanks,
    jim

  2. #2
    Senior Member SMOODY's Avatar
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    Well, the stuck plug could result from a couple of things.
    1) The plug may have been over tightened, damaging the threads on the plug or in the block.
    2) The plug is cross-threaded
    3) Rusted/Corroded.

    Whatever you do, don't try to 'force' the plug out. Since the plug will move, you may be able to remove it by working it back and forth. You can also try putting some oil in the plug hole to lubricate the threads.

    If all else fails, you could force it out, but the odds of damaging the head are high. If that does occur, professional help would probably be needed.
    2001 330i (my car)
    2004 Audi Allroad (wife's car and family truckster)

  3. #3
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    well, i sprayed a bunch of wd-40 into and around the spark plug hole and let it soak for a couple of days. bingo! i worked the plug back and forth in the hole until it backed right out. sweet.

  4. #4
    Senior Member tgmeyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by beckley
    wd-40 .
    WD-40 is good stuff. CRC or Kroil make very good products, too.

    http://www.kanolabs.com/

    Last edited by tgmeyer; 04-05-2006 at 11:23 AM.
    "Everyone should believe in something. I believe I'll go fishing."
    --Thoreau--
    2005 330 CiC

  5. #5
    Word of advice: next time you install new plugs, put a dab of anti-seize on the threads. It will prevent this from ever happening again.

    --OAP

  6. #6
    Senior Member tgmeyer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Obnoxious Arrogant Prick
    Word of advice: next time you install new plugs, put a dab of anti-seize on the threads. It will prevent this from ever happening again.

    --OAP
    Yes, and I reccomend the copper high temp stuff. I used that on exhaust manifold bolts/studs and spark plugs in my boat. Had a Chrysler 318 Marine and every year I thanked myself for using it.

    C5-A® Copper Anti-Seize Stick
    The Loctite exclusive C5-A® Copper based Anti-Seize formula, now available with less mess in a convenient stick. Protects metal parts from rust, corrosion, galling, and seizing to temperatures up to 1800°F.

    Features & Benefits
    • Protects metal parts in high heat environments up to 1800°F
    • Prevents rust, corrosion, seizing and eases disassembly
    • Reduces friction and wear to critical parts
    • Buttery texture ideal for both coarse and fine threads
    • Exceptional lubrication properties

    Typical Applications
    • For use with copper, brass, cast iron and all alloys including stainless steel, all plastics and all non-metallic gasket materials
    • Bolts, bushings, pipes, fittings, flanges, gaskets, headers, manifolds, nuts, studs, etc.
    • High heat ovens
    • Crane assemblies
    • Turbine studs
    • Coal crushers
    • Casting and Molding equipment
    • Heat exchangers
    Last edited by tgmeyer; 04-05-2006 at 11:28 AM.
    "Everyone should believe in something. I believe I'll go fishing."
    --Thoreau--
    2005 330 CiC

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