i have an 87 325i (e30) and want to change the oil for winter. the guy at the auto parts store said to use 10w-30. is this correct? not 10w-40 or something else?
thanks,
jim
i have an 87 325i (e30) and want to change the oil for winter. the guy at the auto parts store said to use 10w-30. is this correct? not 10w-40 or something else?
thanks,
jim
I think for around this area, 10w-30 sounds about right for your car. Double check in you manual.Originally Posted by beckley
10w-40 will have more Viscosity Index Improvers which, from what I understand can break down sooner and don't lubricate as well.
---Eric
I've never had a problem with running Redline 15W-50 in either my '87 635CSi or '87 325iS, year-round. Both have about 150k miles on the original engines. YMMV, however.
Last edited by SharkD; 10-13-2005 at 07:05 PM.
Valvoline 20w50 Racing all year around. My 90 325i has 225k miles.
Jim, You are taking the word from the counter guy @ Auto Zone for your BMW???? That's like asking a convict for legal advice. IMHO.Originally Posted by beckley
Always refer to the manual or just call a dealer.
Tom
"Everyone should believe in something. I believe I'll go fishing."
--Thoreau--
2005 330 CiC
Valvoline DuraBlend 20w50 for the M50 and M20 in both coupe. 10W-40 for winter months.
10W-40 conventional oils are not recommended due to the large amount of viscosity improvers used to make the viscosity range so large.
Personally I would switch to BMW syntehtic 5W-30 and run it year round. But otherwise, 10W-30 would be fine for winters around here.
Terry Carraway
02 Topaz E46 M3 SMG
00 Dakar M Roadster
95 Alpine E36 M3 LTW
SCCA Spec Racer Ford Red/White
ok,
i've been told to use 15w-50, 20w-50, 10w-40, and 5w-30. what this tells me is that people are running all different viscosities of oils and not having any problems. i think that i'll take tom's advice and call the dealer. thanks to all who replied!
jim
...and you can't go too wrong. Frankly, the winters are so mild here, that unless you live far to the west, you can probably continue run with the same oil. The number of days that really truly are cold (by Minnesota standards, that is) where you'd need a "winter" oil, is negligible.
Cheers,
OWT.Originally Posted by AlfaEric
Early synthetics did not contain some solvents present in conventional oils that caused seals to swell. So switching caused the seals to shrink causing leaks. Synthetic oils since the early 70s have additives to prevent these problems.
As for removing sludge, that would be a good thing. But if you are really worried, change the filter after 1 - 2K miles.
Terry Carraway
02 Topaz E46 M3 SMG
00 Dakar M Roadster
95 Alpine E36 M3 LTW
SCCA Spec Racer Ford Red/White
I was wondering about that. I put 'rumored' in my original post because I was beginning to question its validity over the past few years. I used to hear LOTS of people warning others not to switch but recently I've started seeing more and more people reporting that they switched successfully.Originally Posted by Pinecone
The desposits I was mentioning aren't really sludge in the pan but the gunk that builds up on some seals that is actually preventing leaks. The extra lubrication/cleaning properties from synthetics is 'rumored' to clean these deposits and re-open the leaks that conventional oil had clogged.
---Eric
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