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Cordless Impact Wrench recommendations? - Page 2
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Thread: Cordless Impact Wrench recommendations?

                  
   
  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD




    I'm running Ireland Engineering racing studs and I figure that as long as the gun is only used in reverse, it doesn't matter if it hits the max torque. (TorqueSticks can't be used when reversing a nut.)
    If you're going to do that, buy a $20 cordless drill. Break the lugs and spin them off--spin them on and torque them.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed
    2002 BMW M3 - Alpinweiss III/Black
    1999 323i KP/GTS2 - Alpinweiss III (Black Hood, other stuff)
    1990 325is - Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 325is - Alpinweiss II/Black (S50B32)
    1989 M3 - Alpinweiss II/Black (S62B50 in progress)



  2. #17
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    I still think the Chapter should spring for Hooter's girls to change tires at the end of the day at a school.

    I found in the heat etc that a good break bar and torque wrench was almost as quick and not nearly as heavy as an impact gun etc. Took less out me using break bar etc than impact gun.

    Always hated last run of a weekend and facing taking the track tires off etc.

  3. #18
    Senior Member jkuper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD

    Eh, more crap to carry with you.

    I am not following this statement tho...why would you worry about torque stickk taking them off? The max torque required in the beginning to break them loose, and the more available torque you have at that point the better it is. From there on, it's all downhill.

    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD
    I'm running Ireland Engineering racing studs and I figure that as long as the gun is only used in reverse, it doesn't matter if it hits the max torque. (TorqueSticks can't be used when reversing a nut.)


    -- Jason

  4. #19
    Senior Member AlfaEric's Avatar
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    Show up early and use the phrase - "excuse me, can I try your impact wrench?". Actually, if you offer to give them a hand, they will probably return the favor. Then you can try out a couple different models yourself and see what would work best for you.

    ---Eric


    Single handedly lowering the pax for MT

  5. #20
    Senior Member SharkD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick325ixT
    If you're going to do that, buy a $20 cordless drill. Break the lugs and spin them off--spin them on and torque them.
    I have a high-torque DeWalt drill... do they make 1/2" square to hex adapters for drills?

    Quote Originally Posted by JKuper
    I am not following this statement tho...why would you worry about torque stickk taking them off?
    According to: http://www.procutinternational.com/h...torqstiks.html
    Quote Originally Posted by http://www.procutinternational.com/html/torqstik/how_torqstiks.html
    • DO NOT use TorqStik to remove nuts.
    Quote Originally Posted by AlfaEric
    Show up early and use the phrase - "excuse me, can I try your impact wrench?". Actually, if you offer to give them a hand, they will probably return the favor. Then you can try out a couple different models yourself and see what would work best for you.
    Hmmmm.... Sage Advice -- I think I'll take it, especially if I can find a drill to 1/2" adapter.

  6. #21
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    You can buy a 3/8" adapter for $2.99 at sears. If you haven't got one, I hear they've got 3/8" 17mm sockets, too.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed
    2002 BMW M3 - Alpinweiss III/Black
    1999 323i KP/GTS2 - Alpinweiss III (Black Hood, other stuff)
    1990 325is - Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 325is - Alpinweiss II/Black (S50B32)
    1989 M3 - Alpinweiss II/Black (S62B50 in progress)



  7. #22
    Senior Member AlfaEric's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD
    Hmmmm.... Sage Advice -- I think I'll take it, especially if I can find a drill to 1/2" adapter.
    Keep in mind that my suggestion will not work with me. I have taken the easiest way out and drive on street tires.

    ---Eric


    Single handedly lowering the pax for MT

  8. #23
    Senior Member SharkD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick325xiT 5spd
    You can buy a 3/8" adapter for $2.99 at sears. If you haven't got one, I hear they've got 3/8" 17mm sockets, too.
    LOL. Unfortunately, my lug nuts are 19mm... Oh well, I guess I'll just have to go to Costco to have them change my tires before and after each track day/autox.

    Seriously, after typing in that rather pathetic request in this thread, I spent a little time on google and found what I need, although the drill I have is only rated to 450 in-lbs. I've got to run by the hardware store anyway, to get some mounts for my fire suppression tubing. (And my 17mm deep socket is a 1/2" drive, my 19mm deep socket is a 3/8" -- couldn't find ANY 1/2" 19mmm sockets in-stock in DC or online.)


    Quote Originally Posted by AlfaEric
    Keep in mind that my suggestion will not work with me. I have taken the easiest way out and drive on street tires.
    Unfortunately, I can't do that -- I've got to get used to the way the car handles on race tires before I pursue a rookie NASA license sometime next year. If I were just AutoX-ing, I'd probably get some 15inch AVS ES100s and run those on street and course -- I like the way they've performed on the 635csi...

  9. #24
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    I'm using a 7.2 volt total POS drill right now. I think my fingers can get more torque on the nuts.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed
    2002 BMW M3 - Alpinweiss III/Black
    1999 323i KP/GTS2 - Alpinweiss III (Black Hood, other stuff)
    1990 325is - Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 325is - Alpinweiss II/Black (S50B32)
    1989 M3 - Alpinweiss II/Black (S62B50 in progress)



  10. #25
    Senior Member jkuper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SharkD

    I don't think I said to use the torque stick when taking lugs off, did I?


    -- Jason

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