Do I have to replace Ignition Coils???

My 2000 323i wagon (130k on it) did not crank and was towed to the mechanic. It was not a battery issue.

He said that the cylinders were flooded by gas, which is a common symptom just after a short distance driving. It could not be fired due to lack of oxygen. He flushed out the gas by pumping gas pedal all the way cranking it until it started, more than 5 minutes. He let me go without replacing any parts, saying I need new spark plugs soon.


After one week driving, the car did not crank again. My friend mechanic suggested ignition coils or relays since it was flooded with gas.

Should I replace ignition coils? They are very expensive.

First off, is the Service Engine Soon (SES) light illuminated in the instrument cluster? If so, a code will be captured and can be read with a Peak diagnostic tool (many of us old-bees have them).

The 6 ignition coils don't fail all at once. When one coils fails, it will immediately trip the SES light and the engine will mis on one cylinder and sound like a sewing machine. If the Spark Plugs have not been replaced...ever, then 130k is way beyond their useful life.

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Originally Posted by glindsay

First off, is the Service Engine Soon (SES) light illuminated in the instrument cluster? If so, a code will be captured and can be read with a Peak diagnostic tool (many of us old-bees have them).

The 6 ignition coils don't fail all at once. When one coils fails, it will immediately trip the SES light and the engine will mis on one cylinder and sound like a sewing machine. If the Spark Plugs have not been replaced...ever, then 130k is way beyond their useful life.

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I do not have SES light. I can't believe the 6 ignition coils failed all together, either.

The spark plugs have about 60k on it. I think they are worth replacing anyway.
How about coils at 130k?

I don't think it is the car wash symptom. I drove more than 10 miles for 30 min.

The reason I guess the mechanic mentioned gas flooding is I tried to crank it pushing the pedal many times before I towed it to there.
How long should I do what you said? I'm just afraid to do it since it may damage something else, battery, alternator etc.

If I replace ignition coils (although they are not the correct ones), what problem would be caused?

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Originally Posted by robojoo3231

I don't think it is the car wash symptom. I drove more than 10 miles for 30 min.

The reason I guess the mechanic mentioned gas flooding is I tried to crank it pushing the pedal many times before I towed it to there.
How long should I do what you said? I'm just afraid to do it since it may damage something else, battery, alternator etc.

If I replace ignition coils (although they are not the correct ones), what problem would be caused?

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Your "mechanic" should know that pumping the gas pedal doesn't flood fuel injected cars, repeated cranking can, by firing the cold start injector each time, holding the throttle open allows max air flow to evaporate excess fuel.

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Originally Posted by Bob

Your "mechanic" should know that pumping the gas pedal doesn't flood fuel injected cars, repeated cranking can, by firing the cold start injector each time, holding the throttle open allows max air flow to evaporate excess fuel.

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Would you explain this idea in more detail? I can understand what you are saying but not completely, i.e. repeated cranking, the cold start injector?. Thanks!

Sure, the models with a cold start injector shoot a little extra fuel into the manifold each time you hit the starter, after several attempts, I imagine the plugs could be fouling/wet.

I have a similar problem with my 2000 740iL (turn key and nothing happens). According to my Peake code reader it is the EWS module. So I just reset the code and then my car starts. It sounds like you may have the same problem.

Did your "mechanic" read the fault codes on your engine? I'd check that before proceeding any further.

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Originally Posted by kimokk

I have a similar problem with my 2000 740iL (turn key and nothing happens). According to my Peake code reader it is the EWS module. So I just reset the code and then my car starts. It sounds like you may have the same problem.

Did your "mechanic" read the fault codes on your engine? I'd check that before proceeding any further.

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Just erasing the code fixed the problem?
I don't think my mechanic read the fault codes. Since I don't have the reader, I have to crank it anyway to see the mechanic.....
What is the EWS module?

Thanks

The EWS module is part of the alarm and immobilizer system. It prevents the car from starting if it doesn't recognize your key so it cuts off the electrical connection to the starter. I was able to temporarily reset the fault so that I could start my car. I usually have to do it once a day. I just ordered an EWS module from the dealer. Where do you live? I might be able to drop by today and read your fault codes with my Peake reader.

-Kimo

Robojoo:

Take a look at these two links. Lots of info on crank but no start issues.

-Kimo


http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e3...tart&forum=e36
http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/e4...tart&forum=e46