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View Full Version : Chapter Event 04/17/2010 - Ladies DIY @ At Speed Motorsports



ilwerdna
01-23-2010, 01:48 PM
7410 Coca Cola Drive
Hanover, MD 21076
atspeedmotorsports.com (http://maps.google.com/local_url?q=http://www.atspeedmotorsports.com/&dq=At+Speed&f=q&source=s_q&output=js&hl=en&geocode=&vps=1&jsv=200b&sll=38.845056,-77.330875&sspn=0.074336,0.15398&abauth=938921b0:leqa-tRDNI5Ug3CtkbHeTNRQzEA&absince=422&oi=miw&sa=X&ct=miw_link&cd=1&cad=homepage,cid:13099996009905661510&ei=K0RbS_rFGYOANpin_OkM&s=ANYYN7lRFkczK8NDz_lGUeBM-CFI3gHiCw)‎

webmaster
03-11-2010, 02:10 PM
Do It Yourself (DIY) Program Overview

The 2010 Do It Yourself (DIY) program allows National Capital Chapter (NCC) BMW Car Club of America (CCA) Members to work on their own cars under the supervision of expert mechanics and technicians provided by the DIY Sponsor. The purpose of the DIY is to learn and practice proper maintenance and repair techniques that you can routinely complete within a two-and-one-half-hour (2.5 hour) time period.

There are typically several NCC members who can assist you when an extra pair of hands or advice is needed. We are happy to show newcomers the joys of working on your own car. Most events start at between 8 am and 9 am and typically finish at 3 pm. Lunch for the event is provided by the club.

The DIY Program Webpage is here http://www.nccbmwcca.org/content.php?119-diy

This event offers online registration and payment through MotorsportReg.com.

More... (http://www.motorsportreg.com/index.cfm/event/event.advert/uidEvent/4E766620-C15F-6711-E99A4E0BC4B0CA30)

prentissra
03-19-2010, 07:27 AM
Registration for the Ladies DIY opens tomorrow.

Everyone is encouraged to register, but women will have priority for all jobs.

thotts
03-23-2010, 04:26 PM
I just signed up and I have a couple of questions.

Where do I pay the $20? Is it ok to pay cash the day of the event?

I'm requesting changing my brakes pads and possibly the rotors. Are any special tools required for that? I have a Wrench set something like this (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00930036000P). And I have one screwdriver with multiple parts that fit in the handle. Is that sufficient?

Since I plan to do this brake change again someday, I'd like to have my own tools.

Thanks.

///M44ti
03-24-2010, 11:58 AM
Hi Gina-

Bringing $20 to the event is fine

The extra tools I'd recommend are:
-A 'persuader' (extra large flat blade screwdriver) for removing the caliper spring
-A pair of goggles (because that spring will hit you in the face)
-A set of metric sized hex (allen) drivers for the rotor retainer bolt
-Something to press the piston back into the caliper (I use a large C-clamp)

Go ahead and order the new rotors. If you don't put them on at the DIY, as you mention, you'll want to do it some other time. But if you don't have them at the DIY, you won't be able to install them if you decide you want to.

You can come out and use borrowed tools, and then decide what you will need to buy for yourself later.

Pelican parts has some excellent online how-to's. Here are the ones for pads (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Brake_Pads/E36-Brake_Pads.htm) and rotors (http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-57-Brake-Disc/101-Projects-57-Brake-Disc.htm).

Caroline

mduhovich
04-03-2010, 12:46 PM
There is something we really need to get done this month and we accidentaly missed the deadline this night. Is there any chance that we can still get in on this event?

///M44ti
04-05-2010, 10:31 AM
There is something we really need to get done this month and we accidentaly missed the deadline this night. Is there any chance that we can still get in on this event?


I suspect I'll be able to fit you in as a walk-up. Please let me know either by posting here or by PM what it is that you need to be able to get done.

mduhovich
04-06-2010, 11:27 AM
I suspect I'll be able to fit you in as a walk-up. Please let me know either by posting here or by PM what it is that you need to be able to get done.
That will be awesome. I will need to install a hitch on my x5. I also have to replace brakes, but I am not sure that there will be sufficient time for this.

Also, my 'check engine' indicator just popped up a couple of days ago.

pseto
04-06-2010, 04:28 PM
That will be awesome. I will need to install a hitch on my x5. I also have to replace brakes, but I am not sure that there will be sufficient time for this.

Also, my 'check engine' indicator just popped up a couple of days ago.

front or rear brakes or both? installing a hitch along with the brakes is a lot though. is it the OEM hitch that comes with the wiring harness?

mduhovich
04-07-2010, 01:31 PM
Paul, I am not sure which ones. I just have an error on the dashboard "check brakes linings." Hitch is priority though, since we bought a new sailboat and we need to pick it up from the seller. In addition, I want to be able to get to the PM session of the autocross, so probably I will have to do brakes next time.

The hitch is not OEM - just a cheaper version for x5 with an electrical system. Alex says that he has already bought all the necessary pieces.

Maria.

MPWR
04-07-2010, 01:58 PM
If you have a brake system light, that's your priority. It probably means that the wear sensor on one set of pads has been worn through- which means your pads are very thin. Time to change them, or at least verify that they are in good working condition. Don't tow any sailboats without checking your brakes. And no autocross either. :icon_omfg

prentissra
04-07-2010, 02:16 PM
My $0.02.

I would recommend doing the the brakes first. Stopping is always a priority. If the light is on that means you have hit the wear sensor on the pads and they are low. The brakes should be replaced as soon as possible. I agree with Andy that you shouldn't do autox or tow until you get this fixed.

Also, if you are on the waitlist, you probably will not get on a lift until the afternoon. I'm not sure if the hitch can be installed on ground level.

Caroline will need to make the final decision.

1996 328ti
04-07-2010, 03:43 PM
Brakes just slow you down. :)

mcoupemindy
04-08-2010, 03:24 AM
front or rear brakes or both? installing a hitch along with the brakes is a lot though. is it the OEM hitch that comes with the wiring harness?

Installing a hitch on an X5 shouldn't be much trouble as the frame is predrilled from the factory for it (if I recall correctly). If it is predrilled, I assume that it's not more than eight bolts that need to be put in to mount it. As a caution, remember that all hitch assembly bolts require a ridiculous amount of torque, so be prepared with a torque wrench that can read as high as you need to go. (Typically anything hitch related goes to 160+ ft. lbs.)

mduhovich
04-08-2010, 08:25 AM
My $0.02.

I would recommend doing the the brakes first. Stopping is always a priority. If the light is on that means you have hit the wear sensor on the pads and they are low. The brakes should be replaced as soon as possible. I agree with Andy that you shouldn't do autox or tow until you get this fixed.

Also, if you are on the waitlist, you probably will not get on a lift until the afternoon. I'm not sure if the hitch can be installed on ground level.

Caroline will need to make the final decision.

no autocrossing on X5!!!!!!!!!!:))))

mduhovich
04-08-2010, 08:31 AM
Installing a hitch on an X5 shouldn't be much trouble as the frame is predrilled from the factory for it (if I recall correctly). If it is predrilled, I assume that it's not more than eight bolts that need to be put in to mount it. As a caution, remember that all hitch assembly bolts require a ridiculous amount of torque, so be prepared with a torque wrench that can read as high as you need to go. (Typically anything hitch related goes to 160+ ft. lbs.)

I have read a couple of DIY articles about installing a hitch. It seems like the hardest part is removing the bumper.Yes, I think mine is predrilled.

I have also heard that if I have an error about the brakes, I still have 5000 miles or so. I might be wrong about this though.

mduhovich
04-08-2010, 08:32 AM
If you have a brake system light, that's your priority. It probably means that the wear sensor on one set of pads has been worn through- which means your pads are very thin. Time to change them, or at least verify that they are in good working condition. Don't tow any sailboats without checking your brakes. And no autocross either. :icon_omfg

I am autocrossing a different car!:)

woodym3
04-08-2010, 10:32 AM
Depending on the vehicle, type of brake pad, and use of vehicle, brake pads could easily last another 5,000-miles after the wear sensor light is activated. Tell Alex to pull each wheel and physically examine each pad (inside as well as outside). Changing brake pads (and rotors) prematurely is probably the biggest rip off done by repair facilities. Not to mention the labor charges for this simple procedure (so easy even I can do it).

mduhovich
04-08-2010, 10:53 AM
Depending on the vehicle, type of brake pad, and use of vehicle, brake pads could easily last another 5,000-miles after the wear sensor light is activated. Tell Alex to pull each wheel and physically examine each pad (inside as well as outside). Changing brake pads (and rotors) prematurely is probably the biggest rip off done by repair facilities. Not to mention the labor charges for this simple procedure (so easy even I can do it).

Thank you, Woody. Will do:)

Jim Dunlap
04-08-2010, 05:07 PM
Curry's on Four Mile Run failed the inspection on our 2000 328Ci because of the rear brake pads. I was a bit suspicious; the almost $700 quote just for the rears (new rotors, new pads, new sensor - all OEM) didn't help. No warning light had illuminated. Since we were about to change out the brakes overall, I told them to put the fail sticker on the windshield and I'd handle it. I pulled the rear pads at home. Guess what: they were almost totally gone! One pad must not have had more than 1-2 mm left (J&F - I was there for a DIY - told me 3/32" was the minimum allowed - is this correct?). The bottom line to this story: Curry's was correct in failing the car. After changing the pads at home I took it back, they passed it, and I was on my way.

mcoupemindy
04-09-2010, 03:33 AM
J&F - I was there for a DIY - told me 3/32" was the minimum allowed - is this correct?

D. Inspect for and reject if:

1. Vehicle is not equipped with brakes or any brake has been disconnected, rendered inoperative, or improperly installed. Trailers having an actual gross weight of less than 3,000 pounds are not required to be equipped with brakes; however, if brakes are installed, these vehicles must be inspected.

Brake System Failure Indicator Lamp

2. Passenger vehicles manufactured after January 1, 1968, are not equipped with a red brake failure warning lamp or warning lamp does not light with parking brake applied when ignition key is turned to the start position, except for anti-lock system. The red brake failure warning lamp should light when the ignition key is turned to the start position; on some imports it may be checked when the emergency brake is applied or other factory installed test button. (DO NOT reject if only the amber ABS/anti-lock brake lamp is on.) With the engine running and parking brake released, the red brake failure warning lamp should go off, except for vehicles equipped with anti-lock system. If so, apply service brake for 10 seconds and if the red brake failure warning lamp lights again the system is defective. Also, if the warning lamp light does not come on when there is a leak or the warning lamp light is not functioning properly, the system is defective and shall be rejected. NOTE: This paragraph does not apply to vehicles registered as street rods nor does it imply that the red brake failure warning lamp needs to light when the emergency brake is set. There are many vehicles that are not factory equipped with an emergency brake indicator light.

Brake Linings and Disc Pads

3. Riveted linings or disc pads are worn to less than 2/32 of an inch over the rivet head(s).

4. Bonded or molded linings or disc pads are worn to less than 2/32 of an inch in thickness .

5. Wire in wire-backed lining is visible in friction surface.

6. Snap-on brake linings are loose.

7. Any lining is broken or cracked so that lining or parts of lining are not firmly attached to the shoe or has cracks on the friction surface extending to the open edge.

8. Grease or other contamination cannot be satisfactorily removed from the lining, drums, or rotors.

9. Rivets in riveted linings are loose or missing.

10. Any lining or pad is misaligned or does not make full contact with the drum or rotor.

Brake Drums and Discs

11. Brake drums or brake discs (rotors) are worn or scored to the extent that their remachining would result in a failure to meet manufacturer's specifications.

NOTE: A number of vehicles on the market are equipped with a lock nut to hold the rear brake drum in place. Manufacturers recommend replacement of these lock nuts after each removal to prevent failure of the component. If the customer is advised up front, then the wholesale cost of the replacement nut may be charged to the customer.

NOTE: The proper method to remove the rear brake assembly on the 2000 Ford Focus is to remove the four bolts from the opposite side of the assembly. Removal otherwise may damage the outside grease cap and incur a cost to replace.

12. Brake drums or discs have any external crack or cracks more than one half the width of the friction surface of the drum or disc. NOTE: Do not confuse short hairline heat cracks with flexural cracks.

Mechanical Linkage

13. Cables are frayed or frozen.

14. Mechanical parts missing, broken, badly worn, or misaligned.

(Source: http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp504.exe?000+reg+19VAC30-70-80)

Jim Dunlap
04-09-2010, 09:44 PM
Good info, thanks. 2/32s vs 3/32s = pretty academic...somebody needs pads!!

Bob
04-10-2010, 08:19 AM
D. Inspect for and reject if:

1. Vehicle is not equipped with brakes or any brake has been disconnected, rendered inoperative, or improperly installed. Trailers having an actual gross weight of less than 3,000 pounds are not required to be equipped with brakes; however, if brakes are installed, these vehicles must be inspected.

Brake System Failure Indicator Lamp

2. Passenger vehicles manufactured after January 1, 1968, are not equipped with a red brake failure warning lamp or warning lamp does not light with parking brake applied when ignition key is turned to the start position, except for anti-lock system. The red brake failure warning lamp should light when the ignition key is turned to the start position; on some imports it may be checked when the emergency brake is applied or other factory installed test button. (DO NOT reject if only the amber ABS/anti-lock brake lamp is on.) With the engine running and parking brake released, the red brake failure warning lamp should go off, except for vehicles equipped with anti-lock system. If so, apply service brake for 10 seconds and if the red brake failure warning lamp lights again the system is defective. Also, if the warning lamp light does not come on when there is a leak or the warning lamp light is not functioning properly, the system is defective and shall be rejected. NOTE: This paragraph does not apply to vehicles registered as street rods nor does it imply that the red brake failure warning lamp needs to light when the emergency brake is set. There are many vehicles that are not factory equipped with an emergency brake indicator light.

Brake Linings and Disc Pads

3. Riveted linings or disc pads are worn to less than 2/32 of an inch over the rivet head(s).

4. Bonded or molded linings or disc pads are worn to less than 2/32 of an inch in thickness .

5. Wire in wire-backed lining is visible in friction surface.

6. Snap-on brake linings are loose.

7. Any lining is broken or cracked so that lining or parts of lining are not firmly attached to the shoe or has cracks on the friction surface extending to the open edge.

8. Grease or other contamination cannot be satisfactorily removed from the lining, drums, or rotors.

9. Rivets in riveted linings are loose or missing.

10. Any lining or pad is misaligned or does not make full contact with the drum or rotor.

Brake Drums and Discs

11. Brake drums or brake discs (rotors) are worn or scored to the extent that their remachining would result in a failure to meet manufacturer's specifications.

NOTE: A number of vehicles on the market are equipped with a lock nut to hold the rear brake drum in place. Manufacturers recommend replacement of these lock nuts after each removal to prevent failure of the component. If the customer is advised up front, then the wholesale cost of the replacement nut may be charged to the customer.

NOTE: The proper method to remove the rear brake assembly on the 2000 Ford Focus is to remove the four bolts from the opposite side of the assembly. Removal otherwise may damage the outside grease cap and incur a cost to replace.

12. Brake drums or discs have any external crack or cracks more than one half the width of the friction surface of the drum or disc. NOTE: Do not confuse short hairline heat cracks with flexural cracks.

Mechanical Linkage

13. Cables are frayed or frozen.

14. Mechanical parts missing, broken, badly worn, or misaligned.

(Source: http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp504.exe?000+reg+19VAC30-70-80)

its amazing to see such an elementary mathmatical error published in a Govt. rulebook, as a machinist its a pet peeve of mine to see unreduced fractions, usually dealing with tread depth,i.e. 2/16",vs 1/8".

Pilot&Co-Pilot
04-13-2010, 01:29 PM
Hello,

We missed the registration deadline.

Is there any possibility of a wait list?

We called Bob & Gabrielle, over @<hidden> AtSpeedMotorsports. Gabrielle took ourcontact info and said she would contact Andy Miller for us to check on the possibility of a wait list.

Debby would like to install her Dinan Parts (exhaust 1.5 hours) on her 2005 E46 330 convertible.

Sincerely,
Mike

prentissra
04-13-2010, 05:00 PM
You should contact the DIY Coordinator for this event - Caroline Miller (///M44ti is her username) on this forum by Private Message. The registration window has been closed for almost two weeks and the event is already full. There may be a possibility for walk-ups but there are no guarantees.

We would appreciate it if you do not contact sponsors about whether you can get into events. These inquiries should be addressed to the DIY coordinator for the event.

There are other DIY's that are coming up including one that is taking registrations right now - Leehigh and one that will open for registration this weekend (Curry's). Registrations are open for a two week period. We recommend that you sign up for an event at the beginning of the registration window to ensure you get a spot. Most of our events have been filling up quickly.

PM me if you need info on how to sign up.

thotts
04-18-2010, 03:33 PM
Thanks for a great event Caroline (and everyone else who helped get things organized)! :icon_clap

I got my new brake-pads on and they seem to work, since I got home ok. ^_^

Thanks Richard for helping me complete my first brake job EVAH.