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DIY Clutch Stop
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Thread: DIY Clutch Stop

                  
   
  1. #1
    Senior Member mcoupemindy's Avatar
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    DIY Clutch Stop

    Aftermarket pricing for clutch stops made me want to puke ($30.05 shipped from UUC!).

    So, I decided to get a bit crafty and see what I could come up with.

    After 30 min in the hardware isle at Lowe's, I left with the following parts:

    (1) 9-1/2 Rubber Stopper PN 139565
    (1) 3/8-16 Fender Washer PN 68884
    (1) 3/8-16 Hex Nut PN 63303
    (1) 3/8-16 x 2" Carriage Bolt PN 63324

    TOTAL COST: $3.14

    I'm not positive how it's going to hold up as only time will tell, but for only a couple of bucks, it turned out great!

    Let me know what you think. If you decide to make a similar one, you might have to use a different length carriage bolt (probably shorter) due to your engagement point.
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  2. #2
    Senior Member 1996 328ti's Avatar
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    Shouldn't the bolt be metric?
    ...steven
    BMW CCA #146825

    318ti.org | bmwcca.org/forum

  3. #3
    Senior Member mcoupemindy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1996 328ti View Post
    Shouldn't the bolt be metric?
    Actually the factory one is standard! I know, I too was baffled!

    Maybe because the Z3 was made in the states?

    Either way, there's VERY little difference between M10 & 3/8-16.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Car54's Avatar
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    I loved my stop for the M3, but the coupe was almost useless...I could have gave you my stop...I can't use it...it's lowest setting would allow me to engage the gears smoothly.
    Car54 ...well, now Car52

    Craig Brickner

  5. #5
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    I think the thread is metric, but it is close enough to the fraactional tha tthe fractional works


    The is another solution I used which is an "elevator bolt" the kind you find on the bottom of a refrigerator to adjusted or level it. it has a big flat rubber covered surface with the long threaded bolt part. works great right out of the box


    does anyone else have trouble with the clutch peadal having side to side play if I step on the clutch sometimes it seems to move to the side and it would seem to slip off of the factory clutch stop.

  6. #6
    Senior Member mcoupemindy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandberg84 View Post
    I think the thread is metric, but it is close enough to the fraactional tha tthe fractional works


    The is another solution I used which is an "elevator bolt" the kind you find on the bottom of a refrigerator to adjusted or level it. it has a big flat rubber covered surface with the long threaded bolt part. works great right out of the box


    does anyone else have trouble with the clutch peadal having side to side play if I step on the clutch sometimes it seems to move to the side and it would seem to slip off of the factory clutch stop.
    The factory clutch stop is nothing more than an elevator bolt with a BMW P/N stamped on it. The problem with just using an elevator bolt is that it provides no greater surface area compared to the stock stop for the clutch pedal slop (that all BMW's have). I too have had my pedal slip past the factory stop.

    I'll test again sometime, but I had a much better fit with the standard (american) v. metric. The pitch of the thread with the metric really didn't want to work properly and the standard 'fit' better in my opinion. After researching a bit, the difference in the threads are fractions of a mm. I'm not too worried about it.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandberg84 View Post
    does anyone else have trouble with the clutch peadal having side to side play if I step on the clutch sometimes it seems to move to the side and it would seem to slip off of the factory clutch stop.
    Quote Originally Posted by mcoupemindy View Post
    The problem with just using an elevator bolt is that it provides no greater surface area compared to the stock stop for the clutch pedal slop (that all BMW's have). I too have had my pedal slip past the factory stop.
    Not to take this thread too far off course, but if you're having 'side-to-side' slop issues, check out UUC's delrin clutch pedal bushings. At $20 they are woefully overpriced (ahem, mentioned above regarding pre-fab clutch stop too) and don't forget shipping is extra, but it is worth it. They replace the plastic split rings on either side of the clutch lever swing point with solid pieces of delrin. Your pedal will go straight to the floor and straight back and never feel sideways again. They also include a couple of washers to use as 'spacers' in case your clutch pedal has induced a severe amount of sideways slop over time.

    For my M3 I accompanied these with an aftermarket all metal clutch pedal and now I've got sweet sweet short and linear actuation instead of BMW's definition of clutch movement. They claim this pedal works for the Z3's as well (or at least that they have a version of it for the Z3).

    http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...W_Products.htm (scroll to the bottom)


    PS> no clutch stop necessary with this thing, its sweet.
    Mike R.
    2002 M3 - ultimate driving excuse
    formerly: 2005 Z4 3.0i

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reach View Post
    Not to take this thread too far off course, but if you're having 'side-to-side' slop issues, check out UUC's delrin clutch pedal bushings. At $20 they are woefully overpriced (ahem, mentioned above regarding pre-fab clutch stop too) and don't forget shipping is extra, but it is worth it. They replace the plastic split rings on either side of the clutch lever swing point with solid pieces of delrin. Your pedal will go straight to the floor and straight back and never feel sideways again. They also include a couple of washers to use as 'spacers' in case your clutch pedal has induced a severe amount of sideways slop over time.

    For my M3 I accompanied these with an aftermarket all metal clutch pedal and now I've got sweet sweet short and linear actuation instead of BMW's definition of clutch movement. They claim this pedal works for the Z3's as well (or at least that they have a version of it for the Z3).

    http://www.masonengineering.net/Subp...W_Products.htm (scroll to the bottom)


    PS> no clutch stop necessary with this thing, its sweet.
    I've been rather dubious about the Mason/GSP clutch pedal... How annoying is the smaller engagement point?
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed
    2002 BMW M3 - Alpinweiss III/Black
    1999 323i KP/GTS2 - Alpinweiss III (Black Hood, other stuff)
    1990 325is - Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 325is - Alpinweiss II/Black (S50B32)
    1989 M3 - Alpinweiss II/Black (S62B50 in progress)



  9. #9
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    I find it preferable to OEM. It does shorten the overall throw length your foot has to work, but its not an on-off switch by any means and you can still let slip to your hearts content. I found OEM to be too tall for my taste, often getting on the gas too early in the let-out. Mind you, I'm new-ish to this car and you may have had yours for some time, so stock may 'feel right' to you far more than it did for me.

    You're welcome to try it sometime at an event.
    Mike R.
    2002 M3 - ultimate driving excuse
    formerly: 2005 Z4 3.0i

  10. #10
    Senior Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reach View Post
    I find it preferable to OEM. It does shorten the overall throw length your foot has to work, but its not an on-off switch by any means and you can still let slip to your hearts content. I found OEM to be too tall for my taste, often getting on the gas too early in the let-out. Mind you, I'm new-ish to this car and you may have had yours for some time, so stock may 'feel right' to you far more than it did for me.

    You're welcome to try it sometime at an event.
    I'd love to, thanks!

    Unlike, say, the E36, or the non-M E46 I'm pretty happy with the pedal feel in the M3. OTOH, it's always interesting to try something that changes the feel of something so central to driving the car.
    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD Duramax LBZ/Allison 6-speed
    2002 BMW M3 - Alpinweiss III/Black
    1999 323i KP/GTS2 - Alpinweiss III (Black Hood, other stuff)
    1990 325is - Brilliantrot/Tan
    1989 325is - Alpinweiss II/Black (S50B32)
    1989 M3 - Alpinweiss II/Black (S62B50 in progress)



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