If you are doing the tbelt........Cam seal is right there. Cap and rotor are off. you did not mention the tentinior but that too. acc belts might be a good idea.
Cam end seals(x4) and adj the valves?
If you are doing the tbelt........Cam seal is right there. Cap and rotor are off. you did not mention the tentinior but that too. acc belts might be a good idea.
Cam end seals(x4) and adj the valves?
I'll find the wrench and it is 17 mm Thanks. I did order the cam seal crank seal and tensioner Too and belts. Your right if your doing that much do it all.
Make sure you replace all the crush washers on the oil pan plug and diff plugs. When they aren't replaced, people overtorque the bolts to get a good seal--they are one time use washers. The trans plug is tapered, so it goes in tight. Diff plugs are 10mm, trans is 17mm. I have a hex key from snap on that is stubby so I can use it with a 3/8 ratchet to get up in there for the trans fill plug. You may find that they are easier to remove when hot, but since the car isn't moving right now, brute strength will be necessary.Originally Posted by Andrewc53
I got into it today. I did the valve adjustment and started taking it apart for the timing belt. What a pain in the ass. I can't get the fan off the water pump (I know left hand threads) so I took it out together. Put the pump in a vice and still cant get the fan off. I need to know where the coolint drain plugs for the engine are. I don't have the new plug wires but want to know how you get the pickup for the tach in the new wires. I guess that is what it is. It's in the picture. Also when I took the water pump off the cam belt tensioner spring and guide pin were laying inside the block. That can't be good. I still need to pull the main pulley and lower belt cover off and see what is going on after that. I got one box of parts today and should have more soon. If someone can answer those Questions thank you. Here are some pictures. A Curtis
http://s247.photobucket.com/albums/gg129/andrewc53/
-->I need to know where the coolint drain plugs for the engine are.
Right under the the exhaust on the left hand side. It is a mess even if you let it drain slow. I recomend you get a fumoto valve with a nipple for future use.
--->I don't have the new plug wires but want to know how you get the pickup for the tach in the new wires.
If you get a new wire set just get one with the sensor.
the fan picture does not look right where is the 32mm nut on the clutch side(might be the angle)? I also dont know how the spring would be in the block. I assume it happened when you removed the water pump.
How do the coolant lines look(you are there)......
The 32mm nut is between the fan and pump and I can turn the pressed on pully mount but the fan won't budge. I went looking and found the drain on some website. And after reading up on the timing belt change I guess I could have knocked it in to there taking it off although it looked like it has been in there a long time. I hope the wires come with the pickup . for 145.00 they should. Thanks A Curtis
I have not had the pleasure of having a suck fan. When you put it on dont tighen to tight. i hit it once with a rubber mallet. i never use the two tool system. IT will not come off.
It depends on the wires... if you bought "high performance" they may be too large. worst case you are not in batch mode and all injectors will fire.
Seems like the whole car is plaged with froozn bolts. I can't get the 10 mm out of the center of the cam sproket and it looks like the bolts holding on the crank pulleys are going to be a problem. Says to use red locktight when putting them on. That will mean heat to get them loose. Car is turning into less and less of a bargain. LOL A Curtis
OK so what felt like a 10 mm hex head and socket almost fit was the male end of the tork bolt holding the cam pulley on. I got that revelation after a while today. And it came loose with the right socket. ( can't see it there) also got the pulleys and timing wheel off the crank.(needed heat on all six bolts). The wires came today with the pickup. Should be able to start putting it back together tomorrow. The old timing belt looks pretty beat so at least it hasn't been changed recently. A Curtis.
Dont forget to change the water pump. All the accessory belts.
You also need to clean the throttle body. Check the motor mounts and I cant think of the name of it but its some type of snubber that my E30 used to lose
every drivers' school season.
I have a Bentley manual for the E30 I no longer need. A nice donation to Collie Rescue of the Carolinas and it has a new home. Or trade for a Honda Element manual.
Switching out the OEM headlights for a nice set of Hellas makes a big difference. 100 watt bulbs blow the fuses
I also may have a spare throttle cable in the basement or garage.
Dave Apker and the collies
Can someome point me to a link on getting to the front crankseal? THANKS A Curtis.
You'll learn tons by searching your topics at either of the two E30-specific forums mentioned in earlier replies, or these additional ones:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...splay.php?f=20
http://www.e30tech.com/forum/
John in VA
NCC concours program
'74 2002tii
'85 535i
'86 535i
'03 530i
'06 330ci ZHP
'15 228i M Sport
Did some looking around and figured out the main seal. Used the starter and breaker bar method to get the pulley loose. I got my cam seals in got the water pump on got the thermostat replaced. but missed the gasket for the main seal holder plate thingy. also got the belt tensioner positioned. I guess I'll clean up and wait on that and a new fan clutch to get here. I got time to paint my valve cover too. Thanks for help so far. A Curtis
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