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View Full Version : Cordless Impact Wrench recommendations?



SharkD
07-17-2005, 01:29 PM
Now that I'm starting to get serious about AutoX and Drivers' Schools, I've realized that I really need an impact wrench. (Hand torquing 16 lugs 4 times a day just isn't reasonable.)

What would you guys and gals recommend for a cordless impact wrench? (Make, model and/or any tips.)

Thanks.

1996 328ti
07-17-2005, 01:47 PM
I use the Span-On 12v CT350 with a 14.4v battery.
The 12v battery doesn't always break the lugs loose for me so I bought the 14.4.
There is a CT3450 that uses the 14.4v battery.
If I had to do it over again I'd probably look at the 18v Dewalt.
Aside form it being larger I feel it broke lugs much easier.
Just don't tighten the bolts all the way down since it will probably crank them more than 85#.

bren
07-17-2005, 04:25 PM
I'm pretty sure you can the Milwaukee or Craftsman much cheaper than the SnapOn.

BahnBaum
07-17-2005, 05:36 PM
I'm pretty sure you can the Milwaukee or Craftsman much cheaper than the SnapOn.

True, but he's talking about the SpanOn.

Alex

SharkD
07-17-2005, 11:53 PM
Okay, I found two 18v DeWalt wrenches for the same price:

http://www.dewalt.com//ProductImages/PC_Graphics/PHOTOS/DEWALT/TOOLS/SMALL/0/DW057K-2_1.gif
DW057 - 138 ft-lbs - variable speed (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=6344)

http://www.dewalt.com//ProductImages/PC_Graphics/PHOTOS/DEWALT/TOOLS/SMALL/0/DW059K-2_1.gif
DW059 - 300 ft-lbs - fixed speed( I think?) (http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=6347)

Is one underpowered/overkill? Anyone have any experience with either? Thanks.

bren
07-18-2005, 07:39 AM
The top one might not have enough power to break really stubborn lugs.

The bottom one has the fixed speed trigger, which for me is a deal breaker.

jkuper
07-18-2005, 10:07 AM
The top one might not have enough power to break really stubborn lugs.

The bottom one has the fixed speed trigger, which for me is a deal breaker.

Make sure to get variable speed. I have an 18V Craftsman and it's good. FWIW, most of them, including Craftsman, DeWalt, Milwaukee are made by Black and Decker.

SharkD
07-18-2005, 11:31 AM
How about the Milwaukee 9079 - 240 ft-lbs, variable speed
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/mediumprod/9079-22.jpg (http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=27&catalogId=40027&langId=-1&productId=284537&mainHeader=Tools&categoryId=189329&mainCategoryId=362&parentProd=281126)?

Anyone used this model?

jkuper
07-18-2005, 11:39 AM
Yes, a few guys on Roadfly have it and like it. Comes with a case and two batteries.


http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=45461

bren
07-18-2005, 11:43 AM
Yeah, that one is nice....but HUGE.

AG
07-18-2005, 11:54 AM
How about the Milwaukee 9079 - 240 ft-lbs, variable speed
http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/met/html/images/mediumprod/9079-22.jpg (http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=27&catalogId=40027&langId=-1&productId=284537&mainHeader=Tools&categoryId=189329&mainCategoryId=362&parentProd=281126)?

Anyone used this model?

I have that one. I would give it an 8 out of 10. Lots of torque, variable speed trigger, electric brake and five year warranty. However, the unit is pretty large and very heavy, though it doesn't feel so bad once you start using it, and the battery life could be better. It does come with an extra battery, so that mitigates that issue.

If you plan on using it underneath the car, etc., I would get something smaller, but it works great for tire changes.

BahnBaum
07-18-2005, 12:55 PM
I've got that same Milwaukee. Like others have mentioned, it's powerful but seems kinda short on battery life. It's also kind of large.

All in all, I'm happy with it.

Alex

SharkD
07-18-2005, 01:38 PM
Hmmm... okay, I've spent some quality time with Google and talking to a friend of mine who took an automotive mechanics' class at Montgomery Co. Comm. Coll. (he's a bit of a shade-tree mechanic on the weekends).

I think what I'm going to do is buy the 300 ft-lb DeWalt DW059 and use it only to remove lug nuts, and get a speeder handle and use that in concert with my torque wrenches to attach the lugs.

Is that a reasonable method? Speak within the next 6 hours or forever hold your peace. :)

(BTW, thanks for all the help and advice.)

jkuper
07-18-2005, 01:48 PM
What's a speeder handle?

Alternatively, get a (snap-on if you like) torque stick and a craftsman gun. my battery seems to last forever. I don't think you need a super-powerful gun, I think any 18V should do the job. But I wouln't get a non-variable speed one. Although Bud uses DeWalt without any issues with wheel studs. :dunno

SharkD
07-18-2005, 01:54 PM
What's a speeder handle?

http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/sk-45181.jpg


Alternatively, get a (snap-on if you like) torque stick and a craftsman gun. my battery seems to last forever. I don't think you need a super-powerful gun, I think any 18V should do the job. But I wouln't get a non-variable speed one. Although Bud uses DeWalt without any issues with wheel studs. :dunno

I'm running Ireland Engineering racing studs and I figure that as long as the gun is only used in reverse, it doesn't matter if it hits the max torque. (TorqueSticks can't be used when reversing a nut.)

Nick325xiT 5spd
07-18-2005, 02:15 PM
http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/sk-45181.jpg



I'm running Ireland Engineering racing studs and I figure that as long as the gun is only used in reverse, it doesn't matter if it hits the max torque. (TorqueSticks can't be used when reversing a nut.)
If you're going to do that, buy a $20 cordless drill. Break the lugs and spin them off--spin them on and torque them.

OwnedbyDuncan
07-18-2005, 02:22 PM
I still think the Chapter should spring for Hooter's girls to change tires at the end of the day at a school.

I found in the heat etc that a good break bar and torque wrench was almost as quick and not nearly as heavy as an impact gun etc. Took less out me using break bar etc than impact gun.

Always hated last run of a weekend and facing taking the track tires off etc.

jkuper
07-18-2005, 02:23 PM
http://www.thepartsbin.com/cartools/images/sk-45181.jpg



Eh, more crap to carry with you.

I am not following this statement tho...why would you worry about torque stickk taking them off? The max torque required in the beginning to break them loose, and the more available torque you have at that point the better it is. From there on, it's all downhill.



I'm running Ireland Engineering racing studs and I figure that as long as the gun is only used in reverse, it doesn't matter if it hits the max torque. (TorqueSticks can't be used when reversing a nut.)

AlfaEric
07-18-2005, 02:26 PM
Show up early and use the phrase - "excuse me, can I try your impact wrench?". ;) Actually, if you offer to give them a hand, they will probably return the favor. Then you can try out a couple different models yourself and see what would work best for you.

---Eric

SharkD
07-18-2005, 03:32 PM
If you're going to do that, buy a $20 cordless drill. Break the lugs and spin them off--spin them on and torque them.
I have a high-torque DeWalt drill... do they make 1/2" square to hex adapters for drills?


I am not following this statement tho...why would you worry about torque stickk taking them off?
According to: http://www.procutinternational.com/html/torqstik/how_torqstiks.html

DO NOT use TorqStik to remove nuts.


Show up early and use the phrase - "excuse me, can I try your impact wrench?". ;) Actually, if you offer to give them a hand, they will probably return the favor. Then you can try out a couple different models yourself and see what would work best for you.
Hmmmm.... Sage Advice -- I think I'll take it, especially if I can find a drill to 1/2" adapter.

Nick325xiT 5spd
07-18-2005, 03:43 PM
You can buy a 3/8" adapter for $2.99 at sears. If you haven't got one, I hear they've got 3/8" 17mm sockets, too. :)

AlfaEric
07-18-2005, 03:46 PM
Hmmmm.... Sage Advice -- I think I'll take it, especially if I can find a drill to 1/2" adapter.
Keep in mind that my suggestion will not work with me. I have taken the easiest way out and drive on street tires. ;)

---Eric

SharkD
07-18-2005, 03:59 PM
You can buy a 3/8" adapter for $2.99 at sears. If you haven't got one, I hear they've got 3/8" 17mm sockets, too. :)

LOL. Unfortunately, my lug nuts are 19mm... Oh well, I guess I'll just have to go to Costco to have them change my tires (http://www.nccbmwcca.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1076) before and after each track day/autox.

Seriously, after typing in that rather pathetic request in this thread, I spent a little time on google and found what I need, although the drill I have is only rated to 450 in-lbs. I've got to run by the hardware store anyway, to get some mounts for my fire suppression tubing. (And my 17mm deep socket is a 1/2" drive, my 19mm deep socket is a 3/8" -- couldn't find ANY 1/2" 19mmm sockets in-stock in DC or online.)



Keep in mind that my suggestion will not work with me. I have taken the easiest way out and drive on street tires. ;)

Unfortunately, I can't do that -- I've got to get used to the way the car handles on race tires before I pursue a rookie NASA license sometime next year. If I were just AutoX-ing, I'd probably get some 15inch AVS ES100s and run those on street and course -- I like the way they've performed on the 635csi...

Nick325xiT 5spd
07-18-2005, 04:17 PM
I'm using a 7.2 volt total POS drill right now. I think my fingers can get more torque on the nuts.

jkuper
07-18-2005, 05:19 PM
According to: http://www.procutinternational.com/html/torqstik/how_torqstiks.html



I don't think I said to use the torque stick when taking lugs off, did I? :confused: